An Inn in Provence, or Toujours Martine

While Provence is not the "region du jour" it was some years back, there remains a mystique about it that continues to seduce newcomers and faithful returnees alike. I, for one, am happy that it is not the Dordogne or the Languedoc or anywhere else in France---or the world, for that matter. It is Provence, and it is magnificent. Until I visited the region, I'd always assumed that the colors in Van Gogh's paintings were exaggerated. Yet there they are in the landscape, in all their intensity: the polleny yellow of the sunflowers, the purple of the lavender, the evergreen of the cypresses, the glinting silver of the olive groves, the mauve of the mountains, and the velvety blue of the evening sky.

My favorite place to stay in Provence is a small bed and breakfast called La Campagne Jeanne, situated a few kilometers outside Aix-en-Provence. I have a natural aversion to most B&Bs, with their lack of privacy and sense of enforced bonhomie. But everything at La Campagne Jeanne is done with the utmost elan by the proprietress, Martine Alexandrian, who lives in the adjacent house with her husband, Daniel. The B&B comprises just four rooms, each with its own private entrance and terrace enclosed by low stone walls. All the rooms are incredibly clean and crisp, with beautifully coordinated Provencal fabrics, antique timbers, tiled floors, and white bathrooms. La Campagne Jeanne is not luxurious, so if your Provence experience necessitates a Relais & Chateaux-type experience, better to stay at Villa Gallici. But I highly recommend it if you want to experience the wind blowing through the cypresses, the beautiful sunsets and night sky, and a chic but not overblown Provencal atmosphere.

And, best of all, the experience comes at a very affordable price: Each room is just 60 Euro per night, including a fabulous breakfast spread of fruit, yogurt, fresh juice, croissants, cheese, jams, and cappuccino. Martine is a wonderful host, and although her English is limited (and our French elementary at best), she always manages to get across directions and restaurant recommendations and to impart, well, joie de vivre. (Cliched, but true.) Because of its location four kilometers outside Aix, you'll need a car to stay at La Campagne Jeanne. You'll want one, anyway, to take day trips to the the Lubéron, Bonnieux, L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Roussillon, Cassis, or beyond.

Lastly, Martine and Daniel have put together a great Web site that provides extensive information, including photos of each room and its particular fabrics and antiques. We prefer Le Mazet---with its walls lime-washed in the ochre shade of Roussillon and an antique desk with a secret drawer---but I'd be equally at home in any of the rooms.